The Italian Beef Worth the Flight

Discussed in this issue: My conversation with Governor JB Pritzker, 24 hours of eating in Chicago, a night at Wrigley, and the Italian beef stand that's been worth the line since 1961.

From Jamie’s Desk:

This week I jumped on a special opportunity: Illinois Governor JB Pritzker — a guy I've been a fan of since watching him work the room at the 2024 DNC — asked if I'd come to Chicago to interview him in person. Of course, I said yes to a 24-hour sprint that also included a trip to Wrigley and tavern-style pizza. I love American cities, and don’t get to visit them enough (as many of us try our best to fly as far away from our home country every chance we get for vacations). But that last part can be saved for another newsletter. 

When you arrive at O’Hare, you’re welcomed by the smell of Garrett’s popcorn, which tells you exactly where you are. Although I don't know the city that well, I have officially decided that there is one must-hit on the way to (or from) the airport: Johnnie’s Beef. I know we’re all beef experts since watching The Bear on FX, and it’s hard to definitively declare the best Italian beef spot in Chicago – but for me, I think it’s Johnnie’s. Read the full review below, and try it for yourself. 

From Johnnie’s, I hit the ground running (or more accurately, walking) looking for my next bite. I polled the crew to help me curate my trip, and Jordan Okun came up strong and sent me to Zarella Pizzeria for a tavern pie. Let's get this straight once and for all (because I know you're all sitting around the table debating this): a tavern pie is from the Midwest — thin, crispy, cut into squares. Its cousin, the bar pie, comes from New Jersey — which Jordan was adamant should never be mentioned in Chicago. I’ll go into the differences in my review below, but just know that they’re both great. If you’re anything like me, when you are eating solo you’re always struggling to try enough things But I have a trick that my kids just love — I made some friends at the bar who were down for some food sharing, so I even got to try some additional bites I wasn’t expecting. You might also think it’s odd – but I think it’s a very normal, community-building activity. I’ll let you be the judge.

After Zarella, I had three hours to kill, which allowed me to do one of my favorite things you can do in Chicago: check out a Cubs game. A special shoutout to my favorite CMO, Uzma Rawn Dowler, for hooking me up with some tickets. I took the L to Wrigley, and even with a short rain delay (with no rain...don’t ask) it couldn't have been better. I got to my seats, grabbed an Old Style beer, and got to watch the Cubs give up 4 runs in 13 pitches. Which was not exactly what they were hoping for, but the large number of Tigers fans in the crowd were beyond thrilled with that outcome.

After that, it was on to the main event. For those in the food game, we all know there are a few top notch restaurant groups, and one of them is based right there in Chicago: Hogsalt. Owners of Au Cheval, 4 Charles and 14 other spots, including the one spot that has eluded me for years – Bavette’s. Well, no longer. I was able to eat with a few friends in Chicago, and even though I might not have been as hungry as I liked, I didn't let that stop me from eating everything on the menu and being happily blown away by the meal. Everything was so good, if you make it to Chicago it should be on your list. And if you are in NYC, you already know its sister restaurant 4 Charles is a must – the only problem is that no one can get in.

I realize that three meals from 2pm to 9pm is not exactly normal, but sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. The next day I walked through Millennium Park, checked out Anish Kapoor’s Bean, saw the lake that looks like an ocean and then met the Governor at an old-school Chicago spot called Erie Cafe. We sadly didn't get to eat, because no one wants to see anyone eat while they are being interviewed, but we had a great chat. This guy is the real deal, not only has he been a great Governor, but his story is powerful. We will definitely be seeing more of him. Check out my conversation here to see the whole thing. 

The bottom line is this: before the summer is out, check out the American city you’ve been meaning to go to. Whether it is a short road trip, a train ride, or a flight – I promise it will be worth it (maybe don't eat 3 meals in 7 hours, though).

Have a restaurant rec, cultural gem, can’t-miss event, or a hot sauce that changed your life? Send it my way: [email protected]

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📍Chicago: Johnnie’s Beef
Cuisine: Italian Beef
Crew: Anthony Jacobson, Ben Hundreds, Jamie Patricof, Jerrold Son, Jordan Okun, Max Winkler, Eater, Bon Appetit, The Infatuation, Time Out
Good For: Casual, Take Out
Pro Tip: They’re cash-only and only have outdoor seating. It’s no frills – don’t expect anything more.
What to Order: For me there is only one choice — “the combo”, which comes with Italian beef and an Italian sausage with hot peppers…lightly dipped. Yes, there is a sausage under the beef. If that is too much, you could go with one of each so you can taste both. Plus, don’t skip the fries or the Italian Ice.
Notes: This place is perfect. It’s nothing fancy – actually, quite the contrary. It’s the epitome of what someone affectionately calls a hole in the wall. There are a handful of picnic tables outside with very little space inside to order. The menu is minimal and they’re a cash only business. Make sure to know what you want before you get to the front, and be ready with your money. There are a few different options here, but the eternal question is: how much jus do you want? You can get it the way it comes, which is delicious, but could be slightly dry for some people. You can get it lightly dipped, which is probably the right call, but similar to a steak – medium rare just slightly overcooked can ruin your experience. A guy on the line with a heavy hand and some extra jus can make that sandwich fall apart before your first bite. Or you can get a soaker, which is basically served in a bowl and is almost like a soup. Now don’t get me wrong, some extra jus never killed anyone, but if you are hoping for that sandwich to stay manageable till the end, proceed with caution. The fries are shockingly good and don't forget the Italian ice. 

📍Chicago: Zarella Pizzeria & Taverna
Cuisine: Pizza
Crew: Jordan Okun, Kate Burr, Eater, The Infatuation, Time Out
Good For: Casual, Take Out, Large Groups, Small Groups
Pro Tip: Order your pie half and half so you can try more — and don’t skip the side of hot honey. 
What to Order: Tavern Style Pie with Sausage and Giardiniera (when in Chicago!), Crispy Calamari, Mozzarella Sticks, Kale Caesar, Gigante Beans, Chicken Parm
Notes: What a great spot. Chicago has no shortage of Italian or pizza places, but Zarella has it all. Basically everyone in the restaurant has one of their famous tavern pies on their tables, which are thin crust pizzas cut into squares that are native to the midwest. The history of these pies can be traced back to immediately after the repeal of prohibition, when pub owners were looking for a cheap snack to give people with their booze. The square cut was designed so you could eat them without a plate. Tavern style is not to be confused with its cousin, Bar Style, which comes from Jersey. That’s also thin and crispy, but is usually round and has the cheese pushed to the edge with a slightly charred cheesy crust. The bottom line is they both are delicious, but in the Midwest we are talking about Tavern. Next trip I need to make it to one of the OG Nick and Vito’s, which is on the South Side and pairs nicely with the Obama Library, so I’m told. 

Governor JB Pritzker may have been born into a wealthy family, but his life has by no means been easy. After losing his father at age 7, JB watched as his mother struggled with alcoholism, before losing her just ten years later. He was an orphan before he was 18 years old, and would trade away every dime to change that. 

Unfortunately, there are no time machines – so he’s doing the next best thing: giving back and speaking honestly. Governor Pritzker isn’t ashamed to tell his story, nor should he be. In fact, it allows him to lead with more empathy and perspective than most elected leaders. 

This week, he invited me to Chicago for an in-person one-on-one at the Erie Cafe, an old-school steakhouse where we had an honest, raw, and hopeful conversation. We spoke about his background, how it shaped his leadership style, and the ways in which he thinks the Democratic party has to improve its messaging. 

While this isn’t going to be a breaking news moment regarding his 2028 plans, for now Governor Pritzker is focusing on his re-election campaign so he can continue to deliver for the people of Illinois. I asked about his new social media tax and why it’s important, and we even spoke about the DSA – his response to their platform might surprise you. 

Governor JB Pritzker is one to watch, for sure. He’s tough, empathetic, and has given his life to public service – everything a leader should be. This is a can’t miss conversation. 

You can listen to the full conversation on Youtube, or as a podcast on Apple, Spotify and Amazon.

Aaron Michaelson, Aaron Stern, Adam Saper, Adam Smith, Alex Tse, Andy Wang, Anthony Jacobson, Ashley Sawyer, Ben Hundreds, Blake Lively, Bobby Kim, Brian McGinn, Chad Colby, Chad Gutstein, Chris Rice, Condé Nast Traveler, David Gelb, David Katzenberg, David Nathanson, Evan Funke, Eater, Eli Meyer, Food & Wine, Goop, Kristina O’Neill, Iman Dakhil, Infatuation, James Beard Award, Jason Spivak, Jerry Greenberg, Jeremy Smith, Jerrold Son, Jessica Alba, Joe Varet, Jon Buscemi, Jon Alagem, Jon Shook, Jordan Okun, James Ponsoldt, Kate Burr, Katie McNeill, Kelly Sawyer Patricof, The LA Times, Leonardo DiCaprio, Lloyd Sacks, Marc Rose, Marc Mezvinsky, Martha Patricof, Matt Haimes, Matt Karatz, Max Chow, Max Shapiro, Max Winkler, Michael Kives, Michelin Guide, Nicole Richie, Neal Moritz, The NY Times, Paul Zucker, Peter Goldwyn, Phil Rosenthal, Phill Ettinger, Rachel Halilej, Riley Patricof, Sawyer Patricof, Shu Chowdhury, Todd Steinman, The Hungry Tourist, The Infatuation, Vinny Dotolo.

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