Soccer, Steakhouses, and New York Eats

From Jamie’s Desk:

In less than one hour from now, the Men’s World Cup will kick off in CDMX, where Mexico will take on South Africa. As a sports fan who has been lucky enough to see some incredible games, it is so exciting to be home in Los Angeles, one of the host cities. 

To put the World Cup in perspective, there will be 48 countries participating, an increase from 32 teams. There will be a total of 104 matches between today and July 19th, and FIFA projects that approximately 6 billion people will engage with the tournament through all viewing opportunities. To put that into perspective, the FIFA President said it’s like hosting 104 Super Bowls in one month. 

The United States has an interesting relationship with soccer. I mean football. Or actually, I mean soccer. You know what I’m saying. The US Men’s Team has never been a top team in the world, save for the first World Cup in 1930 when we came in 3rd. Since that tournament in Uruguay, our best finish was in 2002, where we lost 1-0 to Germany in the quarter finals. On the other hand, the US Women’s soccer team has been one of the most dominant teams in the history of the World Cup, having won four times. I am such a fan of the US Women’s team that I went to Australia in 2023 to watch the matches live, and even made a documentary about them: Under Pressure, which can be found on Netflix.

I’m not sure if the lackluster performance of the Men’s team in previous World Cups is why the average US sports fan is less focused on the tournament than other major events, but what’s amazing is how the rest of the world shuts down for these games. Everywhere from Spain to Argentina to New Zealand to Mexico – all eyes will be on the field for the next 39 days until a world champion is crowned. There will be beer flowing and cheers echoing around cities.

And it’s time to bring that energy here. Now more than ever, we need to band together as a nation and find a common ground: supporting Team USA in the World Cup. As one of the host cities, Angelenos need to welcome our guests with open arms and participate in the festivities. Go to one of the many city-hosted watch parties in the park (check out their website here) or find a local restaurant with food and beverage deals. Cheer on our team, and win or lose – show American pride. I may not know every player, or the key details of the American team. But I know that I support the jersey they’re wearing – and you should too. 

Check out the official FIFA website for updated information, but mark your calendars for the matches below and be prepared to root for our home team! You don’t want to be in the 1/6th of the planet who misses this special, communal moment. 

Note: “Los Angeles Stadium” is actually SoFi. But the FIFA rules prohibit promoting non-sponsor corporate names. The more you know!

⚽️ USA vs. Paraguay — Friday, June 12 at 6pm PT (Los Angeles Stadium)
⚽️ USA vs. Australia — Friday, June 19 at 12pm PT (Seattle)
⚽️ USA vs. Türkiye — Thursday, June 25 at 7pm PT (Los Angeles Stadium)

PS – in the lead up to the World Cup, there are always a lot of interesting storylines that come to light. Here are some of the ones I’ll be watching closely. 

▸ Tim Payne, the 32-year-old New Zealand defender who was the internet's pick for "least-known player at the World Cup" — and is now a folk hero. An Argentine influencer launched a campaign to make him famous, and his Instagram went from under 5,000 followers to over four million in a matter of days.

▸ At 38 years-old, Tim Ream is officially the oldest American ever to play in a World Cup (if he takes the field against Paraguay, he breaks Fernando Clavijo's record). It’s a cool, cross-generational moment because half of Team USA is playing in the World Cup for the first time. 

▸ Messi and Ronaldo will make their sixth — and almost certainly last — World Cup appearances. No player has ever played in six, so this is a record-breaking tournament for two of the soccer GOATs. 

▸ On a more serious note, one of the heaviest stories of the World Cup involves the Iranian team. Because of the political situation, the team had trouble securing visas — the players only received theirs ten days before their opener, and more than a dozen members of their support staff were denied entirely. On top of that, they've been barred from staying on US soil, so they'll sleep and practice in Mexico and cross the border for every match. This is truly unprecedented. For comparison: North Korea qualified for the 1966 World Cup just a little over a decade after the Korean War, and they were allowed to play. That's what makes the World Cup and the Olympics special — it's supposed to be the place where all of this gets left at the door. The Iranian players didn't start a war. Neither did the Iranian people.

Discussed in this issue: Ben Hundreds shares his NYC picks, the Bánh Mi that’s worth waiting for, and I shoutout the James Beard Award nominees in our community.

Have a restaurant rec, cultural gem, can’t-miss event, or a hot sauce that changed your life? Send it my way: [email protected]

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In honor of the Knicks making it into the NBA Finals (and winning that CRAZY game last night), we’re focusing on New York restaurants this week. I tapped two esteemed crew members, Ben Hundreds and Max Shapiro, to share their picks in the city.

📍Williamsburg: I Cavallini (reviewed by Ben Hundreds)
Cuisine: Italian
Crew: Adam Saper, Max Shapiro, Bon Appétit, Condé Nast Traveler, Eater, Michelin Guide, The Infatuation, Time Out
Good For: Date Night, Small Groups, Large Groups, Business Dinner
Pro Tip: For the full experience, also check out the wine bar Four Horsemen, which is basically next door and has the same owner — James Murphy from LCD Soundsystem.
What to Order: Focaccia with Whipped Ricotta, Farfallone with Calabrian Chili Butter and Smoked Pancetta, Spaghetti Al Limone, Pork Chop with Preserved Cherry Glaze
Notes: From the team that brought you Four Horsemen, this Italian spot is one of the nicest rooms you’ll find in New York City. The starters were all incredible, but what really blew me away was the farfallone with calabrian chili butter and smoked pancetta. I loved it so much that when I found out my friend was eating there a few days later, I had him order me one and drop it off so I could eat it on my plane ride home. It was just that good. The pork chop with a preserved cherry glaze was also an incredible bite and a must order. They’re using in-season farmers’ market products which really shines throughout the whole menu. If you’re in Brooklyn, this spot is a can’t-miss.

📍West Village: The Eighty Six (reviewed by Ben Hundreds)
Cuisine: Steakhouse
Crew: Adam Saper, Andy Wang, Kate Burr, Bon Appétit, Goop, The Infatuation, NY Times, Time Out
Good For: Date Night, Small Groups, Business Dinner, Good Cocktails
Pro Tip: Make sure to check the dress code before you go – it’s “smart elegant”. And don’t skip the free pickles.
What to Order: Strawberry Vesper, Tomato Negroni, The 86 Waldorf, White Asparagus and Morels (seasonal), 14-Day Dry Aged Rib Cap, Wagyu Cheesesteak, Creamed Corn Pot Pie
Notes: This was one of the best experiences I’ve had at a restaurant in New York City. Starting with the physical space – it was beautiful. Every detail is thoughtfully crafted, and you can tell no expense was spared when they were building this place. There are only about 30 seats, so it’s intimate without being tiny, and the hospitality is some of the best you’ll find in New York. In terms of the food, that was also a home run. One of my favorite dishes of the entire week was here – it was a white asparagus dish that was so flavorful we basically licked the plate. Unfortunately, that’s a seasonal item, so come back in the spring and hopefully it’ll be back. Of course, I had to get some steak. The ribeye was perfectly cooked with a nice char and crust – and the Waldorf salad was a perfect accompaniment.

☀️ Lunch With Jamie is on summer break, so if you missed a few episodes, take this time to catch up on Youtube or wherever you get your podcasts.

Aaron Michaelson, Aaron Stern, Adam Saper, Adam Smith, Alex Tse, Andy Wang, Anthony Jacobson, Ashley Sawyer, Ben Hundreds, Blake Lively, Bobby Kim, Brian McGinn, Chad Colby, Chad Gutstein, Chris Rice, Condé Nast Traveler, David Gelb, David Katzenberg, David Nathanson, Evan Funke, Eater, Eli Meyer, Food & Wine, Goop, Kristina O’Neill, Iman Dakhil, Infatuation, James Beard Award, Jason Spivak, Jerry Greenberg, Jeremy Smith, Jerrold Son, Jessica Alba, Joe Varet, Jon Buscemi, Jon Alagem, Jon Shook, Jordan Okun, James Ponsoldt, Kate Burr, Katie McNeill, Kelly Sawyer Patricof, The LA Times, Leonardo DiCaprio, Lloyd Sacks, Marc Rose, Marc Mezvinsky, Martha Patricof, Matt Haimes, Matt Karatz, Max Chow, Max Shapiro, Max Winkler, Michael Kives, Michelin Guide, Nicole Richie, Neal Moritz, The NY Times, Paul Zucker, Peter Goldwyn, Phil Rosenthal, Phill Ettinger, Rachel Halilej, Riley Patricof, Sawyer Patricof, Shu Chowdhury, Todd Steinman, The Hungry Tourist, The Infatuation, Vinny Dotolo.

Today’s email was brought to you by: Jamie Patricof and Michaela Sullivan