London Food, Minus the Mushy Peas

From Jamie’s Desk:

I’m getting ready for my annual trip to London, and if I’m being honest, the planning is already starting to stress me out. Between meetings, evenings at the theatre, a visit to the Tate, a stop at Borough Market, and an attempt to take in even a fraction of the city’s history, there is never quite enough time. 

This year, I’ll unfortunately be missing two of my favorite summer events: BST concert in Hyde Park and Wimbledon. The lineup for BST is especially strong with acts ranging from Stevie Wonder to Olivia Rodrigo and Gracie Abrams. Although, it’s hard to top last year’s SZA concert or Adele from a few years back. Wimbledon’s dates also don’t line up with my trip, which is a real bummer because few things compare to watching tennis on the grass courts with a Pimm’s Cup in hand, followed by strawberries and cream.

Adding to the complexity is just how much London’s food scene has evolved. As Stephen Graham and Jack Thorne shared in our recent Lunch With Jamie conversation, “fried mushy peas” and “spaghetti mush” may not boost the country’s culinary reputation, but stopping there would be unfair. While London still has a ways to go before it's on the shortlist of the world's best food cities, it has become a place I look forward to eating. I still return to the classics—Gymkhana, China Tang, Em Sharif, River Café—but over the past decade, a new wave of inventive, globally inspired restaurants has added real dimension. The city continues to excel in key cuisines like Persian, Indian, high-end Chinese, and British staples like fish and chips or Sunday Roast, but now there’s more range than ever. That said, reservations are tough, and while the tube and black cabs make the city incredibly accessible, crossing neighborhoods can still feel like crossing continents. Trying to get someone from Notting Hill to meet you in Islington for dinner is like asking them for a kidney.

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The London List: Amaya, Ambassadors Club, Berenjak, Brat, Brawn, China Tang, Devonshire, Dinings, Em Sharif, Goodbye Horses, Hero Maida Vale, Ikoyi, J Sheeky, Kiln, Kol, Koya Bar, Lurra, Mayfair Chippy, Muse, River Cafe, Royal China Club, Tamil Prince, The Barbary

Check out my past London newsletters here and here.

Devonshire Pub by Vinny Dotolo

Cuisine: Pub Fare

Crew: David Nathanson, Infatuation, Michelin Guide, & Condé Nast Traveler

What to Order: Scallops, Steak, Fish & Chips, Prawns, Sticky Toffee Pudding, & a Pint of Guinness

Good For: Big groups, small group, solo dining

Pro Tip: A great West End meal option before or after a show. You can make reservations online, but they fill up far in advance.

Notes: “The Devonshire is a place you dream of existing in the world, especially if you are looking for classic British pub fare. The room is perfect and classy, but it’s still a proper pub with textbook hunter green exteriors, tinted burgundy leather booths, and golden lighting where you can feel the life lived within the walls. I wish every pub was this good.”

The Barbary by Chris Rice

Cuisine: Barbary Coast (what is now Morocco, Tunisia, Libya, Algeria)

Crew: Eli Meyer, Condé Nast Traveler, Eater, The Barbary, Michelin Guide, & Infatuation

What to Order: Pata Negra (acorn fed Black legged pork), Pluma with Confit Garlic (one of the best meat dishes in the world), Moroccan Cigar, Octopus with Labneh

Good For: The whole restaurant is a counter wrapping around the kitchen in the middle, so best for solo dining or date night.

Pro Tip: They finally take reservations!

Notes: “Chefs are serving you straight off the grill on to the wraparound counter at this 20 seat Neal’s Yard staple. Fantastic food with North African inspiration and a vibe more akin to Eyal Shani’s explosive energized restaurants in Tel Aviv rather than any quiet omakase counters.”

Kiln by Jamie Patricof

Cuisine: Thai

Crew: Iman Dakhil, Eli Meyer, Matt Haimes, Max Winkler, Brian McGinn, Marc Rose, Michelin Guide, Infatuation, Eater, Goop, & Condé Nast Traveler

What to Order: Isaan Style Pork Offal Laap, Braised Beef Shin Curry with Wild Garlic & Nettle, Clay Pot Baked Glass Noodles with Tamworth Belly & Brown Crab Meat, & Northern Style Laap Sausage

Good For: Small groups, date night, solo dining (don’t be scared of solo dining)

Pro Tip: They don’t take reservations, so get there early and put your name down.

Notes: I was unprepared for Kiln. I had heard great things, but after checking out a show in the West End last summer, I was alone and looking for a late night meal, and Kiln was within walking distance. This place had a line at 10pm, and even though I hate waiting, I wasn't deterred. I got a seat at the bar and my mind was blown. These aren't your basic Thai flavors. It’s more like you are at Anajak or Night Market. As long as you are up for a little adventure, Kiln is not to be missed.

My last Lunch With Jamie was an in-person event that served as a bittersweet farewell to Genghis Cohen’s iconic Fairfax location. To celebrate the end of this chapter, I couldn’t have asked for better guests than Adolescence co-creators Stephen Graham (who also stars) and Jack Thorne. Yes, the same Adolescence that just overtook Stranger Things to become Netflix’s second most-watched English-language series of all time. I got to break the news to Stephen in real time. His reaction was…

Aaron Michaelson, Aaron Stern, Adam Saper, Adam Smith, Alex Tse, Andy Wanfg, Anthony Jacobson, Ashley Sawyer, Ben Hundreds, Blake Lively, Bobby Kim, Bian McGinn, Chad Colby, Chad Gutstein, Condé Nast Traveler, David Geffen, David Gelb, David Katzenberg, David Nathanson, Evan Funke, Eater, Eli Meyer, Food & Wine, Goop, Kristina O’Neill, Gwyneth Paltrow, Iman Dakhil, Infatuation, James Beard Award, Jason Spivak, Jerry Greenberg, Jeremy Smith, Jerrold Son, Jessica Alba, Joe Varet, Jon Buscemi, Jon Alagem, Jon Shook, Jordan Okun, James Ponsoldt, Kate Burr, Katie McNeill, Kelly Sawyer Patricof, The LA Times, Lawrence Longo, Leonardo DiCaprio, Marc Rose, Marc Mezvinsky, Martha Patricof, Matt Haimes, Matt Karatz, Max Chow, Max Shapiro, Max Winkler, Michael Kives, Michelin Guide, Nicole Richie, Neal Moritz, The NY Times, Paul Zucker, Peter Goldwyn, Phil Rosenthal, Phill Ettinger, Rachel Halilej, Riley Patricof, Sawyer Patricof, Sarah Meyer, Shu Chowdhury, Todd Steinman, The Hungry Tourist, The Infatuation, Vinny Dotolo.

Today’s email was brought to you by: Jamie Patricof, Michaela Sullivan and Lauren Malanga