Discussed in this issue:
📝 From My Desk — A tribute to one of the greats. Dolly Parton didn’t play the partisan game, but led with her values instead. We should all be operating like that.
🍽️ Eating This Week — Quail scotch egg in NYC, life-changing chicken in SF, board-game-themed dessert in Positano, and authentic yakitori on the west side of LA that’s worth the drive — if you’re adventurous.
🎙️ The Conversation — General Wesley Clark sounds the alarm: America isn’t prepared for the next crisis. Listen to what keeps him up at night, and how to counteract that fear, on this week’s Lunch With Jamie.
Photo Credit: Hollywood Bowl
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From Jamie’s Desk:
This week, we lost one of America’s greatest icons: Dolly Parton. It’s impossible to put her impact into a few words, but it’s safe to say she was singular. I can’t say that I listened to Dolly’s music regularly, but I was, of course, familiar with her songs and she was one of those people who was a key figure in our cultural zeitgeist. Her music, whether or not you’re a country music fan, had that quality to make you sing along. From “Jolene” to “9 to 5” to “I Will Always Love You”. But her music was just one part of who she was. She was known for her vibrant personality – she always had something to say, and refused to be silenced or make herself small to fit inside society’s boxes.
Her story is known by many and has been all over the media the last few days, but it’s still worth repeating. The fourth of 12 children, she was raised in a one-room cabin in Tennessee, growing up in poverty. She married Carl Dean in 1966, and they lived happily together until his passing last year. Her discography was beyond impressive: 49 studio albums, six soundtrack albums, nine live albums, and five collaborative ones. She was also one of the most awarded female country artists in history. And I’m not sure how she had the time, but she also founded the Dollywood amusement park and had a line of baked goods, a hotel in Nashville, and most recently, a rest stop in Tennessee.
Beyond all those incredible accomplishments, what made Dolly so special was that even in today’s polarizing society, it was almost impossible to find someone who didn’t love her. It didn’t matter your politics, race, economic status, or anything else – Dolly Parton transcended. She wasn’t overtly partisan, didn’t endorse candidates and declined the Presidential Medal of Freedom under both Trump and Biden administrations to avoid coming across as too political. Instead of playing the partisan game, she put her money and influence where it mattered and led with her values rather than along party lines.
Dolly was a major donor to hurricane relief, wildfire response, and animal rights causes – and those are just the causes we know about, because she was notoriously private about her philanthropy, doing it purely out of the goodness of her heart. She also donated $1 million for vaccine research early in the COVID pandemic, which ultimately funded the critical early stages of development of the Moderna vaccine. She was a critical advocate for the LGBTQ+ community and became known as a gay icon.
Photo Credit: FEA for All
But the place that she made the biggest impact was with her literacy program, Dolly Parton's Imagination Library, which was founded as part of the Dollywood Foundation in 1995. The charity was started in honor of her father, who never learned to read or write, in hopes of ending the literacy crisis in America and around the world. It mails one book per month to each enrolled child from the time of their birth up until they enter kindergarten. At the time of her death, they had sent out over 332 million books.
Dolly Parton is sadly gone, but she will never be forgotten. My hope is that people pick up the baton and continue where she left off, not only as an artist, but as a fighter for all of the causes that were so near and dear to her heart. Love each other, and help each other out – it’s what Dolly would do.
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🎙️ Next week on Lunch With Jamie, I’m sitting down with two Senate candidates in closely followed races: Josh Turek (Iowa) and Dr. Annie Andrews (South Carolina). They’ll join me on Tuesday, 9/1 with Josh on at 9:30am PT, and Annie at 10:15am PT.
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This week, my guest was former NATO Supreme Allied Commander General Wesley Clark. I knew he was the perfect person to join me in the wake of the situation that was unfolding on the USS Abraham Lincoln, and the ongoing Iran war. We covered a lot, but here are some of the highlights…
The situation with our military isn’t partisan. It’s not the fault of Democrats, Republicans, or anyone in particular – the responsibility falls on everyone.
The U.S. is underprepared, because our military is underfunded. It’s hard to accept that when everything else is also so underfunded, from healthcare to housing to food programs. But we’re vulnerable to a lot of attacks right now, and that’s what keeps the General up at night.
Trust in America from our allies is eroding. We knew this, but it’s not nice to hear that confirmation from someone with such firsthand knowledge.
The biggest change in warfare throughout the years hasn’t been the technology – but the politics of war. Leaders need to more effectively communicate threats to the American people.
Our biggest problem in Iran is our lack of strategy. Again, not surprising if you’ve been following the war – but General Clark acknowledged that while Trump is wobbling, he’s not the first President to do so.
It was refreshing to hear the General’s perspective on the state of national security. Be sure to listen to this episode and to rate, comment, and subscribe.
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📍Los Angeles: Gokigen Tori
Cuisine: Yakitori
Crew: Eater, The Infatuation, Time Out
Good For: Casual, Solo Dining, Small Groups
Pro Tip: Reservations are a must – and for the adventurous eaters, get a seat at the bar and order the omakase.
What to Order: Omakase, or if a la carte: A5 Wagyu Kushi, Chicken Negima, Nasu, Gokigen Kushi, Tsukune (Chicken Meatball), Tebasaki (Chicken Wing)
Notes: I love yakitori. I’ve been eating it for years, ever since I discovered it in NYC right after college. I am in no way a connoisseur (and to be honest, I am probably still a novice) and to the surprise of many, I am really a very basic eater. I mean this in the sense that I am never looking for heart, liver, neck or anything else that isn't on your basic menu – which is blasphemy when it comes to yakitori. The word literally translates directly from Japanese as "grilled bird" (yaki meaning grill and tori meaning bird). A true yakitori omakase will include every part of that bird, and although I am always up for the experience, give me the basics and I will be much happier.
Still, this place worked on a lot of levels for me. Plus, it still allows me not to break my rule against going west of the 405, although it is literally one block from it. The restaurant owner is from Japan so it is very traditional, and there’s a great waitstaff, all of whom are both knowledgeable and friendly. I also loved seeing the variety of diners — from Japanese folks dining solo to families with kids. One note is that if you go during busy times, you could be waiting for your food as the place only has one small grill, but I loved it and can't wait to go back.
Photo Credit: Max Shapiro
📍San Francisco: Zuni Café (reviewed by Max Shapiro for Mad Food World)
Cuisine: Californian
Crew: Aaron Stern, Adam Smith, Alex Tse, Brian McGinn, Eli Meyer, James Ponsoldt, Jason Spivak, Jerrold Son, Matt Karatz, Paul Zucker, Rachel Halilej, Condé Nast Traveler, Eater, Food & Wine, Michelin Guide, The Infatuation
Good For: Date Night, Wine List, Lunch
Pro Tip: They have a great wine list, or offer $40 corkage, with no limit on how many bottles you can bring.
What to Order: House Cured Anchovies, Caesar Salad, Zuni Chicken for Two, Shoestring Potatoes, Any Seasonal Item
Notes: The first time I ate at Zuni Café I was 18 years old. It was 2002. My dad took me, which is shocking in itself he knew to go there. Perhaps just luck. I ordered the roast chicken with the shoestring potatoes and had one of those moments you don’t yet realize is formative. No spectacle. No grand reveal. Just this quiet internal shift where your brain goes, oh… this is what good food is supposed to feel like. That meal stayed with me. Zuni stayed with me. Over 20 years later, after countless meals, countless restaurants, and an entire life spent thinking obsessively about food, Zuni Café remains one of my favorite restaurants on the planet. Not “favorite for nostalgia.” Not “favorite because it used to be good.” Favorite, period.
There’s something about Zuni that’s incredibly hard to articulate and even harder to replicate. The food always feels right. Not trendy. Not showy. Not desperately trying to remind you how thoughtful it is. It’s just correct. The truth is, whatever looks good at Zuni will be good. You just order and trust. The thing about Zuni is that it gets better as you get better. When you’re young, it teaches you what good food can be. When you’re older, it reminds you how little you actually need. After decades of eating, cooking, traveling, and overthinking restaurants for a living (not really, but kind of?), I don’t come back to Zuni out of nostalgia. I come back because it still wins.
To see the rest of Max’s review, as well as other hot dining picks, subscribe to Mad Food World.
Photo Credit: Kate Burr
📍New York City: Dean’s (reviewed by Kate Burr)
Cuisine: British
Crew: Ben Hundreds, Brian McGinn, Eater, Goop, The Infatuation, The New York Times
Good For: Dinner with Friends, Good Drinks, Date Night, Casual
Pro Tip: It's a small space. I'd recommend going with a reservation. Also be prepared as the space is loud, but lively!
What to Order: Quail Scotch Egg, Lettuces, Scallops, Any House Specials
Notes: I have been a fan of both Jess and Annie since the opening days of King. While Dean's positions itself as a British Seafood restaurant, some of my favorite dishes of the night were not seafood. That said, don't skip the scallops! Personally, I'm a sucker for an elevated pub setting. Dark woods wrapping the room. Pints of Guinness in hands. Energy that can't be beat. We started off with a perfect martini and a scotch egg. I never fancied myself a scotch egg lover, but Jess has turned me. A delicate quail egg wrapped in ground pork, fried to perfection. Lettuces were also a sleeper hit. A curry-spiced tangy dressing with bursts of raisins, crunchy almonds upon a bed of butter lettuce + celery. I finished the whole thing. Dean's is definitely a must visit when in NY. There's much more to British food than just fish + chips.
Photo Credit: Kaitlyn Eats! on Substack
📍Positano: Li Galli (reviewed by Alan Patricof)
Cuisine: Italian
Crew: Michelin Guide
Good For: Small Groups, Date Night, Fine Dining
Pro Tip: It’s at the top of the main street in Positano, but I wouldn’t try to walk unless you’re prepared for a 30 minute haul up a steep hill. A taxi is your best bet.
What to Order: Monopoly, Vesuvio Blu, Tasting Menu
Notes: When arriving at Li Galli, I was prepared for a quaint, colorful, portside restaurant – but was pleasantly surprised by a true fine dining experience. The interior design is completely original, featuring a glass ceiling, comfortable blue cushion chairs, and a glistening black and blue table shaped like a vintage Nakashima with irregular edges. It’s certainly not the best view in Positano, but still worth checking out.
Li Galli only has 7 tables, and they were all filled by the time we left. Patrons were dressed in formal attire, and the waitstaff donned white jackets and designer black outfits. It’s a true fine dining experience, and of course that means the food falls under that category, too. The menu offerings were presented in a beautifully bound book, with three tasting menu options: 7 courses for 220 Euros, 5 courses for 180 Euros, and 3 courses for 150 Euros. There are a la carte options as well, which was the preference of my group. Just note that to order a la carte, each guest must choose at least three items.
The dessert was the star of the show – a dish called Monopoly, served on the namesake board and meant to share with another person. The bottom line is that if you’re prepared to spend a lot of money for gorgeous surroundings with precious-sized food portions, precious glasses and platters – this is the spot for you. But if you prefer a casual, local experience I’d suggest you avoid the ride up the hill and wander into the large number of charming bistros, each with a better view than the last.
🦖 The End of Oak Street, produced by Jamie’s List members Hannah Minghella and Matt Jackson, and EP’d by Chris Bender and Jake Weiner is still out in theaters — and worth seeing. And member Erin Benach nailed it as costume designer!
📺 Somehow I missed Lioness when it came out on Paramount+. If you did too, now is the time to watch it. There two full seasons, with the third airing now. We binged Season 1, Zoe Saldana is awesome as always as is the rest of the cast. Plus, John Hillcoat directing doesn't hurt. I can’t wait to watch Season 2 and 3.
🎂 Happy birthday to Richard Ehrlich, Patrick McMullan, Delaney Kellum, Olivia Simon and Rachel Rosenzweig!!
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